#1 Brands in Brief: Calvin Klein, Alexander Wang and Loewe
Tonight, Dior hosts its first fashion show in Scotland in 70 years
Brands in Brief is your weekly newsletter of all the hot topics, hot takes and even hotter gossip from the fashion marketing and advertising world.
Welcome to the first edition of the Brands in Brief newsletter! Thank you for joining me. I’m Amy, a marketing and advertising journalist currently writing for The Drum. Previously, I spent the first half of my career in fashion as a social media manager and photographer.
But enough about me—what's been happening with brands this week? There’s a lot to get into, so let’s go!
Marketing
Was Alexander Wang’s viral lookalike ad a genius marketing move or deeply problematic?
Alexander Wang is a brand that has had its fair share of reputation issues over the past few years, for reasons that have been well-documented. I’ll be honest, it’s a label I hadn’t been massively interested in for several years for this very reason. However, when I saw a video posted on its Instagram last week, I had a WTF moment. That usually warrants some digging.
The post featured A-list lookalikes of Ariana Grande, Beyoncé, Taylor Swift, and Kylie Jenner unboxing the new Ricco bag. It was an obvious commentary on dupe culture, with the Ricco bag resembling the infamous Rocco bag of the early 2010s. The internet was divided, to say the least.
“I would drag him to court” and “This marketing is genuinely genius” were just two of the polarizing comments on IG. Did the marketing team deserve a raise or was it ethically wrong? I asked the world-renowned photographer Rankin, who didn’t mince his words.
“It definitely works as a piece of marketing, as we are all talking about it and it’s getting lots of press. But let’s be honest, it’s pretty crap and, reputation-ally, it’s not leaning into authenticity or anything to do with luxury,” he told me.
“It also feels like an advert from the movie Idiocracy, so it will work for who the bags are aimed at: all of those wannabe celebs on TikTok and Instagram. To them, it will be relatable, an in-joke and therefore works!”
Another hot take is that Alexander Wang is targeting Gen Z with this type of marketing—a group of younger people who have little history with the brand and its controversies. Read more
Advertising
Work I’m loving this week
This gorgeous film for the Hong Kong ballet by Design Army is stunning. The Washington DC-based agency has done a phenomenal job of conveying that dance is a universal language while making it seem like the coolest thing in the world. The ad is to celebrate the ballet company’s 45th year.
Creatives at Design Army said they were inspired by Degas’ beautiful ballerina portraits for this spot. “We playfully wondered what the artist’s work would look like if we brought it to life today.
“The result is a story popping with the painter’s gorgeous coral hues mixed with Hong Kong’s heritage red—all juxtaposed with vivid shades of juicy jade like the head-toe painted alien, that explodes with extraterrestrial contrast.”
I loved the message in this Adidas ad by agencies TBWA\London and TBWA\Neboko. As anticipation builds towards a summer of football, the stylish campaign shines a light on how, alongside excitement, international football can bring an added level of pressure to each player’s game. Oh, and it’s also narrated by David Beckham.
The agency that caught my eye this week
Based in both London and New York, Seen Studios creates the most brilliant in-store experiences that connect brands with people. Some of its clients include Nike, Acne Studios and Timberland. Last week, the studio unveiled its work with Levi’s in Selfridges. I recommend you go check out the space if you’re into denim. This window display is attention-grabbing and taps into the whole cowboy theme that is popular right now but in a very ‘on-brand’ way.
Hot takes
Charles Jeffrey’s decade in fashion and the lore of Loverboy
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy is a brand that’s been on my radar for a long time. When I was 17 and studying textiles at art school, I met Jeffrey at a party in his London dorm. He probably doesn’t remember, but I always recalled how his room was adorned with drawings in the style that we see in his collections today: swirling primary colors with thick black outlines. His drive was palpable and even downright enviable—it was clear that he would be someone in the fashion world. As a fellow Glaswegian, that felt exciting.
From afar, I’ve watched his brand, Loverboy, reach dizzying heights over the past ten years. Jeffrey has continuously challenged industry norms, putting gender inclusivity at the heart of everything the label does.
If you’re in London, there’s an exhibition at Somerset House from June 8 until September 1 dedicated to his work so far.
Loewe shot its new collection on an iPhone…and it shows
Don’t get me wrong, I’m here for the low-fi, ugly fashion aesthetic, but this just feels a little too…grainy. With that being said, Loewe has been a brand that can do no wrong in many people’s eyes (I recently penned how its take on witty advertising is chef’s kiss), but the photos just fell flat for me.
On the other hand, I was into this Juergen Teller film. Miniatures have had such a moment in fashion (hi Jacquemus bags), and I’m living for this tiny town.
The Balenciaga buzzkill
“I have decided to go back to my roots in fashion,” explained Balenciaga’s creative director Demna Gvasalia at the brand’s 2025 resort show. “As well as the roots of Balenciaga, which is making quality clothes—not image or buzz.”
But it seems that Gvasalia just couldn’t help himself for his first show in China, which included collaborations with Under Armour and Alipay. By the looks of comments online, people aren’t buying it. In a post on Diet Prada, one user wrote, “Is the quality clothing in the show with us?” while others quipped, “Where is this resort supposed to be located? 1989 East Berlin?” and “It’s giving: the queens on Ru Paul’s that can’t sew so they hot glue gun everything instead.”
Brutal but hilarious. It’s strange that so many people have brushed aside the huge campaign scandal that caused controversy in 2022. I covered it extensively at the time.
If Balenciaga wants to be a credible luxury brand among real consumers again, I believe it needs a fresh direction.
Hires and fires
Calvin Klein hires Veronica Leoni and returns to the runway
After a few quiet-ish years since the departure of head designer Raf Simons in 2018, Calvin Klein has been making headlines again this year. Who could forget that ad starring Jeremy Allen White in his tight whities, the fallout of the FKA Twigs ad ban and now, it’s hired designer Veronica Leoni in its top job.
Leoni founded her label Quira three years ago and has also spent time at luxury brands Jil Sander, Celine, Moncler and The Row. Her resume is extensive.
“I’m thrilled and honored to have the opportunity to write a new chapter of the Calvin Klein story,” said Leoni.
“For decades, Calvin Klein interpreted the idea of bold self-expression, and I am willing to empower it with a strong accent on style and creativity. I’m deeply thankful to Eva Serrano for her vision and trust. My career has been marked by inspiring encounters with some of the most visionary women in fashion and she is one of them.”
News
Headlines you need to know for the week ahead
Jacquemus confirms Nike Air Max 1 collab
Prada unveils homeware for the first time
Rod Manley to leave Burberry as chief marketing officer after four years
Dr Martens to slash costs as profits plunge
Dior is holding its first fashion show in Scotland for 70 years. The French fashion brand is returning to debut its Cruise 2025 collection on the grounds of Drummond Castle in Perthshire, with numerous big names in fashion due to attend. You can watch the live stream below at 8pm BST.
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